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Evolution Of Jewellery: Beyond Gold Prices & GST, More About Trends


July 14, 2026 | By Retailers Association of India


Gold prices in 2025 have touched historic highs, yet demand refuses to wane. Instead, consumer sentiment has adapted, not collapsed. Lightweight, value-conscious jewellery has taken centre stage, with customers favouring 22K and 18K pieces that balance aesthetic appeal with resale security. Many are also trading old gold for new designs, maintaining basket sizes even as overall volumes dip. Brands have responded by pivoting towards minimalist design, modular collections, and price-sensitive offerings. The demand is no longer just about volume; it’s about perceived value and versatility.

India’s GST structure remains a double-edged sword. The flat 3% GST on gold and 5% on making charges provides simplicity but limits flexibility. While the 2024 budget’s reduction in gold import duties gave temporary respite, jewellers argue that GST levels remain higher than pre-reform days, compressing margins and innovation. There’s consensus in the trade that further rate reductions, particularly on pure gold, would unlock more demand.

Meanwhile, the HUID-based hallmarking regime has brought both trust and friction. While over 17 lakh silver items were hallmarked in the initial rollout, and consumer confidence in purity has grown, the operational burden is undeniable. Rigorous compliance has slowed supply chains, with many jewellers navigating delays caused by mandatory re-engraving and inspection procedures.

Beneath the surface, Indian buyers are indeed “trading down”, but it’s not a retreat. Instead, it’s a strategic shift towards pieces that marry function with form. The shift from heavy bridal sets to modular designs is especially pronounced among younger buyers who value wearability, mix-metal aesthetics, and budget control. Yet, the traditional grandeur of gold is not obsolete; plain gold still anchors 80% of wedding purchases, showing that India’s rituals endure, albeit in new formats.

Global economic pressures add a further layer of complexity. The India-UAE CEPA has facilitated cheaper gold-bar imports, boosting sourcing agility. Conversely, harsh tariffs from the US and EU have stifled export growth, prompting Indian jewellery manufacturers to explore offshore production. A weakened rupee, rising logistics costs, and volatile freight markets have made localisation — not just as a patriotic ideal, but as a commercial imperative.

INDIAN JEWELLERY IS NO LONGER DEFINED BY GEOG RAPHY — IT IS DEFINED BY ASPIRATION. WHETHER THE CUSTOMER WALKS INTO OUR STORE IN KOCHI, DUBAI OR LONDON, THE EXPECTATION IS THE SAME: UNCOMPRO MISING QUALITY, TRANSPARENT VALUE AND DESIGNS THAT CARRY BOTH EMOTION AND MODERNITY. WHAT’S CHANGING IN 2025 IS NOT THE LOVE FOR GOLD, BUT THE MEANING OF OWNERSHIP. TODAY’S BUYER WANTS PIECES THAT TRAVEL WITH THEIR LIFESTYLE — LIGHT ER, VERSATILE, GLOBALLY STYLED — YET ANCHORED IN INDIAN CRAFTSMANSHIP. OUR COMMITMENT IS TO MAKE THAT JOURNEY SEAMLESS, SO THE TRUST WE’VE BUILT OVER DECADES BECOMES THE FOUNDATION FOR THE NEXT ERA OF JEWELLERY RETAIL.”- Dr. Joy Alukkas, Chairman, Joyalukkas Group

Technology That Thinks And Designs

Technology adoption in Indian jewellery retail is progressing, but unevenly. AI and predictive analytics are beginning to move from theory to practice, especially in demand forecasting and inventory planning. Forward-looking chains now blend data from sales history, online trends, and regional preferences to fine-tune stocking. But spreadsheet-based intuition still dominates much of the industry.

In contrast, 3D printing has found broader acceptance. Whether in rapid prototyping, small-batch customisation, or design validation, additive manufacturing has accelerated time-to-market for many. Designers increasingly favour CAD-printed wax models for intricate designs, reducing reliance on traditional mould carving and enabling quick, iterative development.

The omnichannel revolution has created fresh challenges. Most retailers now maintain a presence across showrooms, websites, and marketplaces. Yet the backend complexity of synchronising stock, pricing, and SKUs across platforms remains a major obstacle. Real-time coherence is often hindered by outdated POS systems and fragmented supply chains. Some retailers have responded with heavy investments in ERPs and cloud-based inventory platforms. Others are still catching up.

From a returns standpoint, the most impactful tech investments in the past two years have been those that reduced manual effort or enhanced fulfilment; ERP suites, automated inventory systems, and analytics dashboards. While AR mirrors and VR try-ons garner attention, it’s the less glamorous backend integrations that are yielding the clearest ROI.

Smart stores in 2025 are increasingly “omnichannel.” Retailers envision spaces where analytics-led recommendations meet hands-on consultation. Tablets in the hands of 

Design sensibilities in India are rapidly evolving. Millennial and Gen Z consumers now gravitate towards personalisation, story-driven jewellery, and unconventional motifs. From birthstone rings to nameplate necklaces, there’s a clear preference for pieces that reflect individuality. The social media filter, particularly Instagram, shapes these choices more than catalogues or showrooms.

Modular and convertible jewellery, once a novelty, has now become part of mainstream bridal planning. Brides increasingly seek necklaces that transform into brooches or earrings that double as pendants. Urban shoppers especially prefer lightweight, multi-wear options over legacy sets that live in lockers post-wedding.

This evolution is not a rejection of heritage, but a remix. Kundan and polki styles, temple motifs, and enamel work are all seeing resurgence, but in lighter, more sculptural interpretations. The aesthetic tug-of-war between minimalism and maximalism means most brands must now serve both tastes: sleek, modern lines for the global-minded urbanite, and elaborate, traditional silhouettes for ceremonial wear.

Material innovation is also widening the jewellery palette. While 22K gold and mined diamonds remain pillars, lab-grown diamonds are fast becoming aspirational alternatives, offering larger sizes at more accessible prices. Coloured stones, platinum, silver, and even polymer or enamel accents are entering the fray, particularly in occasion and fusion wear collections.

Still, commercial pragmatism tempers artistic ambition. Designers often release avant-garde pieces in capsule lines or online exclusives, while retail shelves stick to best-sellers. The blend is deliberate: about half a collection typically focuses on proven staples, with the remainder offering experimental flair to attract design-conscious buyers.

Sustainability, Certification And The Craft Of Making

Lab-grown diamonds have transitioned from novelty to strategic segment. While some brands specialise entirely in LGDs, most traditional retailers integrate them under the master brand. Consumers largely view them as an economical complement rather than a separate luxury class.

Certification remains a challenge. As GIA phases out its legacy grading system for lab-grown diamonds in favour of broader quality categories, retailers are left balancing clarity and credibility. IGI has stepped in to fill the gap, but consumer confusion lingers. Most jewellers now conduct active in-store education and point-of-sale campaigns to explain the differences, focusing on value rather than rarity.

Sustainability is no longer a mere buzzword. Brands are experimenting with traceable sourcing, recycled gold, and conflict-free materials. The movement is particularly strong among urban, younger buyers. While few customers are yet willing to pay significant premiums for ethical jewellery, clear communication of sustainable practices does enhance brand perception.

Upskilling the artisan workforce is another pressing priority. While CAD/CAM and laser-cutting tools are being adopted, the goal is augmentation, not replacement. Workshops train karigars to work with digital tools while preserving hand-finishing and stone-setting expertise. This hybrid model respects traditional mastery while pushing the craft forward.

Despite these efforts, skill shortages persist. Polishing, setting, and engraving expertise is thinning, and modern roles like CAD design and CNC programming face a pipeline problem. To combat this, the industry is investing in rural training centres, partnerships with design schools, and youth outreach initiatives. Jewellery is being rebranded as a modern, creative career, not just a traditional vocation.

IN THE HEARTLAND OF TAMIL NADU, JEWELLERY IS A FINANCIAL INSTRUMENT, A CULTURAL MARKER AND A LIFETIME CONTRACT OF TRUST. WHAT WE ARE WITNESS ING NOW IS A QUIET BUT FUNDAMENTAL SHIFT: CUS TOMERS STILL VALUE PURITY AND TRADITION ABOVE ALL, BUT THEY ARE EQUALLY DEMANDING TRANSPAR ENCY, TRACEABILITY AND PRICE DISCIPLINE. AT THAN GAMAYIL, OUR BIGGEST LEARNING HAS BEEN THAT GROWTH DOES NOT COME FROM EXPANDING STORES ALONE, BUT FROM DEEPENING CREDIBILITY IN THE TOWNS AND DISTRICTS WE SERVE. WHEN YOU OPERATE IN A VALUE-CONSCIOUS MARKET, EVERY GRAM MUST JUSTIFY ITS EXISTENCE THROUGH DESIGN, THROUGH RESALE CLARITY, AND THROUGH THE HONESTY OF THE TRANSACTION. THE FUTURE OF JEWELLERY RETAIL IN BHARAT WILL BELONG TO THOSE WHO UNDERSTAND THAT SOPHISTICATED SYSTEMS AND OLD-WORLD SIN CERITY ARE NOT OPPOSING FORCES, BUT COMPLEMEN TARY STRENGTHS.”- B. A. Ramesh, Joint Managing Director, Thangamayil Jewellery Limited

Marketing In The Age Of Personalisation

Marketing spend has decisively shifted online. Although print and television still absorb much of the budget, the most measurable ROI comes from performance marketing and influencer campaigns. Social platforms dominate digital jewellery advertising, particularly Facebook and Instagram, where targetability and conversion tracking allow for precise optimisation.

Regionalisation is another clear trend. Top jewellers now customise campaigns by language, cultural nuance, and local celebrity endorsement. Newspapers in Tier 2 and 3 towns report record ad volumes for jewellery brands, and vernacular digital content is booming. India’s diversity is no longer a demographic insight; it’s a media planning requirement.

Bridal campaigns in 2025 reveal a bride who is both romantic and pragmatic. She wants heirloom potential and resale value. Jewellery ads reflect this duality by blending emotional storytelling with tactical promotions — emphasising versatility, trade-in options, and future milestone rewards.

While Indian jewellery buying remains event-led, brands are getting better at cultivating long-term relationships. Loyalty programmes, CRM data, and lifecycle-based targeting (anniversary rewards, birthday gifts, child milestones) are all tools to increase lifetime value. Some retailers even track website visits and social media engagement as predictors of future buying.

Brands are also experimenting boldly. From virtual try-ons and YouTube-only film campaigns to gamified contests and AI-curated catalogues, 2025 has seen an explosion of creative risk. Not all experiments succeed, but the willingness to innovate marks a shift from static tradition to dynamic interaction.

Crafting The Supply Chain Of The Future

Operationally, the biggest bottlenecks lie in the final stages of production: polishing, stone-setting, and packaging. Delays in hallmarking and customs clearances further stretch delivery timelines. While casting and initial fabrication are largely streamlined, the final mile remains a hurdle.

Digitisation is slowly transforming vendor and artisan coordination. ERP portals and shared dashboards are becoming standard among larger retailers. Yet, most companies still rely on blended models — automated workflows coexisting with personal visits and WhatsApp coordination. Trust, built over decades, continues to anchor these relationships.

Regional manufacturing hubs in South India and West Bengal are helping balance cost and speed. Proximity to material sources, lower labour costs, and decentralised infrastructure allow for quicker regional fulfilment and cost optimisation. Though infrastructural challenges persist in some zones, the benefits of localisation are tangible.

The labour pipeline remains a concern. Traditional crafts are struggling to attract young talent, and modern roles require training that many institutions do not yet provide. In response, firms are investing in apprenticeships, scholarships, and design contests to make jewellery a viable, aspirational career path.

There is also growing interest in wearable jewellery integrated with digital features.

“ Digitisation Isn’t Our Competitive Edge — Inte Gration Is. From Karigar Workflow to Clientel Ing Software in Our Showrooms, the Real Value Lies in Linking Insight to Execution. We Can Now Track a Ring from Cad Design to Doorstep Deliv Ery with Full Traceability, but the Soul of the Product Still Rests in the Artisan’s Hand. That’s the Paradox We Embrace: Precision Powered by Data, Soul Driven by Craft.”- Kiran Shinde, Managing Director, Pmj Jewellers
“ Lab-grown Isn’t a Compromise — It’s a Redefini Tion. When We Launched Solitario, We Weren’t Just Entering a Product Category; We Were Chal Lenging a Century-old Perception. Our Custom Ers Are Not Buying Cheaper Diamonds — They’re Choosing Transparency, Scale, and Technologi Cal Brilliance. The Success of Lab-grown Lies Not in Mimicking the Mined World, but in Building a New Design Grammar Altogether — Bold, Ethi Cal, and Future-facing.”- Ricky Vasandani, Founder & Ceo, Solitario Diamonds
“ We’re Entering a Moment Where Design Is No Longer an Embellishment — It Is the Differentia Tor. The New-generation Customer in Cities like Chennai, Coimbatore and Madurai Is Extraordi Narily Aware of Global Aesthetics, yet Deeply Rooted in Cultural Symbolism. At Challani, Our Focus Is on Bridging That Duality: Bold Silhou Ettes Crafted with the Same Precision Our Fore Fathers Applied to Temple Jewellery. What Ex Cites Me Most Is the Shift in Expectations. People Want Jewellery That Mirrors Their Lifestyle, Not Just Their Rituals. That Means Modularity, Lighter Engineering, Responsible Sourcing and a Level of Finish That Stands up Against Any Glob Al Benchmark. The Brands That Thrive next Will Be the Ones That Treat Innovation and Heritage Not as Trade-offs, but as Partners in the Same Creative Conversation.”- Goutham Challani, Director, Challani Jewellery Mart.
“ Gold Is No Longer Just a Store of Value — It’s a Canvas for Identity. We’re Seeing a New Class of Consumers Who Balance Cultural Depth with Design Fluidity. A 22k Heirloom Doesn’t Get Re Jected — It Gets Repurposed. Our Collections Are Responding to That Ethos: Lighter in Weight, but Heavier in Meaning. The Future Isn’t about Replacing Heritage — It’s about Refashioning It for Relevance.”- Govind Gadgil, Chairman & Md, Pn Gadgil & Sons
 

Looking Beyond 2025

By 2030, many in the industry anticipate a $150–200 billion Indian jewellery market, with lab-grown diamonds potentially holding 20–30% share. Single-karat gold jewellery, blockchain-based provenance, and AI-driven design are seen as likely realities.

For 2026, the focus is sharply on technology — ERP, predictive analytics, and omnichannel retail systems. Talent is another key priority: firms are grooming the next generation of designers, managers, and technologists to handle scale and complexity.

What keeps retailers up at night is not gold prices or taxes, but the bifurcated consumer psyche. The same market demands timeless ritual and fast fashion. It wants both sustainable sourcing and maximum sparkle. Navigating these tensions is the industry’s central challenge.

And if there is one thing jewellery retailers wish policymakers and financiers better understood, it’s that jewellery is not just a commodity. It is culture, memory, and artistry woven into metal. To regulate or finance it as simply another asset class misses its emotional and economic depth. What the sector needs is nuance—and the space to craft its future on its own shimmering terms


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