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A Smarter Retail Strategy for Apparel Brands


July 15, 2026 | By Retailers Association of India


While COCO offers control, the COFO model is far more capital-efficient, scalable, and performance-driven, making it the smarter long-term strategy for apparel brands

In today's fast-paced apparel industry, brands are under pressure to expand rapidly while safeguarding profitability. Two store models dominate this expansion: COCO (Company Owned, Company Operated) and COFO (Company Owned, Franchise Operated). While many emerging brands believe COCO offers more control and margin retention, closer analysis reveals that COFO is often the more strategic, capital-efficient, and scalable option.

Decoding the Models

  • COCO: The brand owns the store, funds capex and inventory, and manages daily operations.
  • COFO: The brand owns the lease but the franchise partner invests in capex, funds inventory, and runs operations.

The Investment Maths: Where COFO Scores Big

Take a 3,000 sq. ft. store generating sales of ₹10,000 per sq. ft. annually (₹3 Crores).

Result: COFO needs only 15% of COCO's investment, freeing capital for expansion or marketing.

Operating Efficiency: The Hidden Power of COFO

Operational costs average 10% (salaries, utilities, maintenance, payment charges, compliance, etc.), plus 4% depreciation. In COFO, with gross margin of 18% on GSV and occupancy absorbed by the brand, profit before tax is ~4%.

Observation: A COCO store delivers just 3.2% PAT after tax, despite an upfront investment of ₹1.23 Cr. Once cost of capital is factored, returns are even weaker. By contrast, COFO delivers the same margin at a fraction of investment. This tilt makes COFO far more sustainable.

New brands often open their first COCO store in high-rent, high-footfall zones to establish visibility. Strong sales here create an internal bias that COCO is superior. When they expand into Tier 2/3 cities via COFO, comparisons with flagship COCOs appear unfavourable. This overlooks local context: COFO excels in market penetration, ROI, and agility. Even flagship stores can thrive under COFO—partners perform better when financially invested, and brands benefit from reduced operational load.

COFO enables an asset-light structure. Since franchisees fund capex and inventory, the brand's balance sheet remains lean, boosting flexibility and valuation multiples. Investors prefer scalable, capital-efficient businesses. For brands eyeing PE funding or IPOs, COFO-led expansion is strategically stronger.

Critics question why brands cover occupancy costs in COFO. The answer lies in risk-reward. Franchisees face capped upside—they cannot raise equity or pursue IPOs like brands can. To keep them motivated, brands must offset risk through partial support (e.g., rent). This secures franchisee trust, aligns interests, and accelerates rollout. In the long term, it strengthens the partner network.

Unlike salaried COCO managers, COFO partners invest their own capital and effort. This entrepreneurial stake drives sharper customer service, stronger sales focus, and better on-ground management. Brands also save on supervision costs otherwise needed to manage COCO operations.

The Bottom Line

In the high-stakes retail game, control alone cannot drive success. Capital efficiency, agility, and motivated partners are decisive. COFO achieves all three, delivering sustainable growth at scale. Numbers confirm it: COFO is not just a viable option but the smarter strategy for apparel brands today.

About the Author

Deepak Bansal, a retail entrepreneur with two decades' experience managing over 1 lakh sq. ft. of retail in North East India, has been instrumental in shaping retail ecosystems. He champions simplicity, ownership, and collaborative growth—where franchisees act as co-creators of brand success. His philosophy: "Ownership is the key."


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